Waitangi Weekend: Kaikoura

The weekend before last (February 4-6) was a Kiwi holiday honoring the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. This treaty, signed by British emissaries and Maori leaders back in the 1840s, established British sovereignty over New Zealand, and is widely considered the founding document of the country. (Of course, its text -- whose meaning is still hotly debated, given its alternate meanings in Maori and English versions -- is still subject to negotiation and debate.)

Thus, I've heard Waitangi Day described to me as the "Kiwi version of the 4th of July."

I guess that says something about later civilities between Britain and her colonies. For us Americans, the founding document is a -- pardon my strong language -- middle finger to the Brits which started a bloody war. For the Kiwis, it's a happy agreement that, depending on who you ask, worked rather well. Certainly New Zealand's European colonizers never chucked their tea into a harbor.

But this Yankee rebel was perfectly happy to take advantage of New Zealand's homage to civility, and enjoy her three-day weekend touring up the East Coast of the South Island. At the recommendation of my friend Ellie, who spent last year in Wellington on a Fulbright grant, I decided to visit the coastal hamlet of Kaikoura. But as I put together my travel itinerary, I realized it made a lot of sense to finish my train journey the next day, heading all the way up to Picton. And the interisland ferry leaves from Picton. Who can pass up a 3-hour cruise and the chance to see Wellington? Not this Yank.

So early Saturday morning, I shouldered my backpack, bussed to Christchurch, and hopped on the Coastal Pacific train. A little pricey (compared to a bus), but spacious, comfortable, and -- critically -- including an open-air car where you can let the wind whip through your hair and watch the countryside scroll by. (Look for another post soon in which I tell you all about how New Zealand reminds me of other places... For now, I'm just going to savor New Zealand for being itself.)

An illicit snapshot hanging out the edge of the
open-air train car.  We were stopped, though!

Aboard the Coastal Pacific en route to the coast!

Two hours later, we were on the coast!

The train route hugs the coast most of the way up to Picton, providing spectacular views.
Of course, much of the road follows the same route; when I return, I'd like to drive it.

Though I dearly love movement and was sad to leave my spot plastered to the side of the open-air car, I was excited to hop off the train and explore Kaikoura, which is known for its rich marine life and its classic beach-backed-by-mountains beauty.

One of my favorite things about New Zealand's coast is the color of the water. It's beautiful and bright -- I'd call it "tropical-looking", for indeed it is, except that parts of the inside passage (especially up by Juneau, where so much glacial meltwater is rushing down from the hills) flash the same hue. The slightly overcast sky was just perfect for showing off that color in all its glory, too!

Normally you'd see mountains backing this scene.

Unfortunately, those low clouds obscured the mountains, so I was left with the impression that the Kaikoura Mountains just don't exist. (This mountain-doubt is a family trait: after rainy days in Europe, my parents still don't believe in the Alps.) However, because my train arrived so early, I had a whole day to explore the coast. I hoofed it south along the coastline, stopping to beachcomb and birdwatch.

Most of you already know about my penchant for photographing
dead wood.  The rocky coastline is a great place to look for shells
at low tide, as I discovered!

My first paua (abalone) shell find in NZ!

I walked this beach to the "snap crackle pop" sounds of seaweed floats under my feet.

I wasn't the only one inspecting the beach with interest!
P.S. Could someone ID this guy for me?

I crept along the seaweed-strewn beach, so busy photographing birds (hopefully you'll see some pictures soon on the Bird List page!) through the tunnel-vision of my telephoto lens that I almost stepped on a seal! Fortunately, this fellow was sound asleep, apparently dreaming so intensely that I could see eyes moving behind closed lids and the occasional twitch.

Knocked out and dreaming on a warm beach.

By US standards, I definitely got too close.

I'd reached the northern edge of the fur seal colony! Another kilometer or so down the road (I decided to move to paved surfaces to avoid another near-stumble, especially since I don't know what New Zealand's laws on marine mammals are), I found the heart of the colony, and some more alert seals.

Posing (read as: scratching) on the rocks.

Continuing along the curve of the Kaikoura peninsula, I climbed up into the hills of the scenic preserve, a long arch of coastline closed to all but foot traffic (though topped by cattle herds). I was reminded simultaneously of California and Barbados as I looked down into the curve of Whalers Bay, but the koru (stylized furled tree fern design) outlined in white rock was distinctly New Zealand.

You can just make out the koru spiral in the lower right.

It was getting late in the day, so I dodged cow patties and headed back up to the heart of Kaikoura. The tide had come up, so I was also prevented from further beachcombing -- a good thing, since in three weeks I'm sure I've already filled up the remainder of my luggage weight allowance with seashells.

Watch out for cow patties!

By the time I made it back, the weather had definitely taken a turn for the stormy. A light mist was blowing in off the ocean as the waves broke, and little patches of light fog were rolling in. I was quite happy to dig into my sandwich supply, write out some postcards, and curl up in a warm hostel bed.

Rain and rough surf rolling into the coastline.